Flooring - Concrete Slab, Timber Floor, Hardwood Floor
Flooring - Concrete Slab, Timber Floor, Hardwood Floor
The concrete is laid on top of several things put in beforehand. There is a layer of compacted base course, a polythene vapour barrier, plumbing pipes and pipes taking electrical and other cable, in-floor heating and polystyrene insulation if required. The concrete needs to be cured and cut. There are additives that can be applied to the concrete to reduce cracking during or following curing; the concrete can be coloured, polished and/or ground.
- Ensure the floor is fully laid in one pour and there is no lag between deliveries
- Ensure the concrete is cured properly under advice from your builder
Wooden floors are laid on floor joists or on concrete. These need to be level and solid.
- Are the floor joists even and solid?
- Has the flooring timber been evenly laid?
- Has the timber been sufficiently seasoned (the right moisture content)?
- Are the plywood/chipboard panels secured properly and are they even – is there any movement or squeaks?
- Underfloor foil insulation is the minimum level of insulation required under the Building Act but never shy away from increasing your level of insulation
Websites to visit for more information:
Checklist for Solid Timber Installation
Your timber floor is not only a substantial investment in money but is critical to the overall look of the finished interior. It’s critical that it be laid properly to ensure a long life without problems.
The Substrate on which the floor is laid is of vital importance and must be in good condition before the floor goes down. Make sure your builder has checked the moisture levels of the substrate before laying the timber.
Substrate:
c Is it level and clean? Concrete grinding, sanding of Ply or Particle Board will probably be required
c If laying on concrete, has recommended Concrete Primer (a form of waterproofing) been applied? This will also achieve better glue adhesion
c Have loose Plywood and Particle Boards been screwed and/or glued down?
c Moisture content of Plywood or Particle board should be below 14%
c Is the substrate well vented and is there no pooling of water?
Laying
Make sure your installer follows manufacturer’s instructions. If these are not following the warranty may be void:
c Timber moisture content: a minimum of 10% of the boards to be laid should be checked and should have a moisture content of 8-12%; if air-conditioned or heated, then 7-12%. Note – wide boards require a higher tolerance
c Are the correct waterproofing and glue used?
c Has the installer started in the centre of the room and ended with an even board against the wall? Note – there should be a minimum 6mm gap to all walls and structures to allow for movement.
c Timber should be relatively straight and not installed under tension. Don’t ‘over cramp’ and compress wood fibre
c When face nailing on to joists, individual boards should be nailed with two nails. If ‘secret nailing’ ensure the correct glue is used and it is recommended not to glue the profile
c Make sure high points on the substrate are sanded or ground off – low points should be marked and additional glue can be used to fill. Again, use correct glue with good mechanical fixing or weights to ensure the glue adheres to the substrate – DO NOT glue the profile
Sanding and Finishing
Many options are available to finish your timber floor to keep it looking gorgeous, protect it from knocks and sun:
c Moisture Cured – various gloss levels: clear, standard or tinted
c Water borne – also various gloss levels: clear, blonded or coloured
c Oils
For technical advice on flooring finishes:
Handly Industries, ph 09 444 4558
For technical advice on concrete primer and glue:
Sika Industries, ph 0800 745 269
Information supplied by South Pacific Timber, 21 Ruru St, Eden Terrace, ph 09 379 5150