Flooring

Flooring

There are many flooring options and what you choose will depend as much on your personal taste as your budget.

 

Your choice of flooring is a critically important consideration, as the material and colour plays a major part in any interior design, and can be seen as a starting point for colours used in soft furnishings and on your walls. It can also havalso has a major impact on the ambience, or atmosphere, of a room.

 

Concrete is a modern choice and is very on trend, whereas carpet is warm and makes the room quiet but can also be seen as an old-fashioned choice. Both personal taste and desired ambience will play a role in your decision so use the one you like and ignore trends.

 

Concrete

While it may seem utilitarian, there’s a lot to be said for it. Fireproof, and tough to the point of being almost bullet-proof, it can take all the hard knocks of family life, and needs little maintenance.

 

Chances are many homeowners already have a concrete floor in place anyway, and once any overlay has been removed the substrate may require nothing more than finishing.

 

There are plenty of finishes to choose from, too, now that concrete can be polished, stained, painted, carved, etched, and so forth. Concrete does have limited acoustic properties and can be hard and unforgiving underfoot. It is, however modern and versatile, and is relatively cost effective.

 

Cork

This is an old favourite but often overlooked these days. Modern Cork products are beautiful: natural, warm, soft, noise-absorbent, cool in summer and warm in winter and surprisingly durable. Cork will give many years of use and can be resurfaced. It is now prefinished and coloured, and tiles are available in four modern sizes and a wide range of colours.

 

It’s not one of the cheaper options for floor coverings, but it is well worth considering for its lifelong value, and, if looked after, will reward the cost of installation.

 

Vinyl

The modern version of ‘lino’, vinyl comes in a wide range of formats.

 

Modern sheet vinyls from Europe, which are finished today with slip-resistant and easy-clean properties, replicate many looks and styles, from ‘wood’ planks through to leather, slate and more.

 

Sheet vinyl in two-metre widths is still the most common measure in New Zealand, but there are also three-metre and even some four-metre products, which can help avoid joins.

 

Modern vinyl flooring usually has what is called a ‘cushion back’, which provides softness and comfort underfoot.

 

It is generally more costly than carpet to install, but less than vinyl woodplank or tile – or, for that matter, engineered timbers or corks of a similar quality.

 

Vinyl wood planks and tiles

They are just as they sound: sections in a plank or tile format, installed as individual pieces, looking like real timber or ceramic but made from plastics and offering easy maintenance and economy.

 

These products come in domestic and commercial grades and a variety of sizes. The price point for this option is generally above carpet and vinyl on a like-for-like basis.

 

It doesn’t scratch, indent or stain easily, which makes it kid and pet-friendly. Vinyl planks durable qualities allow you to install it virtually anywhere in your home.

Timber

Timber is likely to be one of the most expensive options, but for some people nothing beats a ‘real’ floor. There’s a large range of products and options.

 

Solid tongue-and-groove (T&G) timbers are, again, available in a variety of thickness and widths – 19mm solid T&G is commonly used in New Zealand, and often if you don’t want a 19mm you are paying for it anyway to be milled down. Native species are more expensive but you can also source recycled timber.

 

Finishes include stains and lime-washing along with traditional polyurethane or the newer, more environmentally friendly water-based coatings; but be aware that these newer finishes need more regular maintenance (typically involving resurfacing).

 

Remember that with any timber, you can go for the consistency of one particular species, but because every tree is different, you can expect to see variations in colour, texture and grain even through the same box of product.

 

Engineered Timber

Engineered prefinished timber has a real timber surface veneer but a manmade backing made of composite timber – sawdust and small pieces mixed with resin – these usually click or lock together and can be installed over special underlay or stuck directly to your subfloor. Products on the market start at 8mm thick and move through to 14mm and 21mm.

 

The finishes are either a plank style (which is relatively costly) or a two-strip or three-strip style (which are a little cheaper because the manufacturers are able to use more of the timber). Thicker products are more likely to be able to be sanded back, either to resurface or stain. You may need to add an additional coating of urethane or similar, to seal against water.

 

It looks like real timber but it is certainly cheaper, though ultimately less durable and has a different feel to the genuine version.

Carpets and rugs

Per square metre, carpet is one of the most economical forms of floor covering because it is usually installed directly over underlay and the subfloor surface, where most other forms of floor require subfloor preparation, which translates into material and labour costs. It also adds a warmth and quietness to a room so is often chosen for bedrooms even when the rest of the house has a solid floor.

 

Types of carpet
There are two basic methods of weaving carpet: cut-pile and loop-pile.

 

In a cut-pile, the top of the carpet fibre is cut to create a luxuriant and soft texture. As a cut-pile relaxes and ‘blooms’, the fibres also soften. One of the advantages of this is that if you have a large area with a join across it the join will become less obvious over time.

 

The other construction method is a loop or textured loop-pile style, where the loop of the woven fibre is not cut. This gives a stronger yarn, and the carpet retains its tidy appearance for years to come.

 

Both styles are popular, each has its pros and cons, and your choice will depend in part on the other elements of your home.

 

Grading carpet
Carpet is a classic example of getting what you pay for. As a guide, domestic carpets are graded heavy duty (for 5–7 years’ use) and extra heavy duty (10–12 years or more). They are also graded by weight, which is a manufacturing term and not particularly easy for the consumer to use.

 

Carpets are generally weighted according to the amount of yarn within the product (i.e. grams per square metre): the higher the weight, the more yarn is incorporated into your product. A heavier carpet is likely to be more expensive but not necessarily a better wearing product than a lighter one.

 

If in doubt, you’ll find labels on the back of samples specifying their recommended usage. This will help you gauge the performance you can expect from the carpet. Note that samples of a cheaper carpet may look just the same as a more expensive option, but after only a few years of wear the quality – or lack of it – will begin to show.

 

Wool or synthetic?
Most manufacturers have a range of wools and synthetics; if in doubt, seek advice on choosing a reputable manufacturer as there is a huge range in quality on offer.

 

New Zealanders have historically been drawn to wool carpets because we supply the wool from here and these days it’s by far the most sustainable option, but the range of other options is expanding with new synthetic products from around the world now available here, as well as other natural fibres.

 

There is no right or wrong option: a good-quality wool carpet and a similarly graded synthetic one both provide great comfort underfoot; cost-wise they are similar, too, and both types offer a wide range of colours. There are nonetheless some key differences.

 

Wool carpets have more loop-pile options than do synthetics. As a material, wool can absorb and release up to a third of its weight in airborne moisture without becoming wet to touch – making your home a drier and healthier place. It is fire-resistant and naturally hypoallergenic, and, being a natural product, has the ability to age gracefully.

 

When we buy a New Zealand wool carpet, we’re supporting the national economy and wool farmers. Wool can also be returned to the earth for weed matting, worm farms or compost. (If you are particularly concerned about the environment, check product claims. For example, an overseas product may have environmental advantages but will also have accrued carbon miles getting to New Zealand.)

 

Synthetic carpet – a good-quality version, such as a solution-dyed nylon or its equal – has two notable strong points. As well as being fade-resistant, it is stain-proof and easy to maintain. Some synthetics can be cleaned with a bleach mix. Most of the new synthetics also have a man-made backing – an attractive anti-rot feature for homes where concrete subfloors may have moisture issues.

 

Natural fibre products, such as sisals and jutes, look beautiful in a full wall-to-wall installation as well as the popular option of having a fabric- or leatherbound custom-made mat.

 

Underlay
Just because you can’t see the underlay, don’t underestimate its importance; good quality is essential. (Remember that cheap is not necessarily best).

 

Good carpet works in combination with underlay, extending the life of both. Underlay reduces the wear on the carpet backing, adds to the carpet’s insulating qualities, and gives a softer, more luxurious feel.

 

Bonded foam is currently the most common underlay used, and again, like carpet, the weight of its bulk density dictates its quality: the lower the weight, the lower the quality.

 

There are other specialist underlays for installations with glue for commercial or wheelchair needs, and premium underlays such as urethane for those wanting the very best. A professional carpet retailer will advise you on the most suitable underlay for your situation.

 

Buying carpet
As well as durability and texture, you’re likely to be guided most by budget and colour. Carpet is usually priced by the lineal metre. A lineal metre is 3.66 metres (12 feet) wide; some of the newer nylons are produced on a 4.0 metre-wide loom. You should use these lineal prices as a guide only; what’s important is the ‘on the floor’ cost, including a good underlay (see below) and installation. A scale plan of your home will help you cost the project.

 

Your carpet specialist should go over your plan with you and indicate where joins are placed throughout your home.

 

Berber and Wooltweed relate to colouring and can refer to either cut or loop piles. Berbers are carpets of naturally earthy tones, such as cream, beige, brown and gold. Wooltweed carpets combine small flecks of many colours with a single base colour.

 

Pale colours tend to show dirt more readily. Blues and green create cool, calm surrounding while colours such as pinks, lemons and apricots emphasize warmth and welcome.

 

If you are choosing from samples, check them under your own night lighting conditions; perceived colours vary according to lighting. Remember, the colour you choose for a room can enhance the feeling you’ve created throughout the house.

 

New Zealand has carpet producers who are able to create any carpet colour, design and style you might want – though you do, of course, pay for this privilege.

 

Carpeting a garage
Garage carpet is usually a polypropylene needlepunch product that won’t rot and is extremely hard-wearing. Garage carpet gives you an extra play or work space in your home, reduces the amount of travelling dust, and is effective at keeping the rest of your home warm – plus it provides added value should you choose to sell a home.

 

Other options

Tiles and stone are options less used in New Zealand as they’re usually found in warmer climates and are an expensive option when you already have a concrete floor, but if you have the money, why not add to your list of considerations? These are particularly suitable for bathroom and kitchen flooring, especially now that new legislation requires waterproof flooring for these wet areas.

 

 

Porcelain tiles or terracotta, slate or other stone – they all look fabulous, can be warmed in the winter with underfloor heating and are extremely durable.

 

 

Flooring Design and Custom Options – Final Suggestions

Anything goes here really.

 

When building or renovating your home – don’t feel confined to the tried and traditional – check out commercial fitouts, showhomes and design shows to gather your ideas and information.  The internet is also a fabulous source of product options and possibilities.

 

Be sure to mention your builder or specifier details to your floorcoverings retailer as you may also be able to obtain special pricing or additional services.

 

If using an interior designer or specialist, be sure to provide the features and benefits that are important to you and give feedback on any queries you may have but remember they can also see the big picture of all your elements together and on a bigger scale.

 

Let your floorcoverings be the perfect palette for the rest of your home, space or fitout and invest in the best you possibly can – you will enjoy the many years of service in return.